Sept 2014 Zambia – Kafue – The Waving Trip :-)

We got a bit stuck for trips this year as Lin had to go to Australia for three months on family business. We had been to Botswana in February and with family descending upon us from October for the rest of the year it began to look less & less likely that we would be able to get away again. But then again………’s amazing what you can plan over a weekend 🙂

I wanted to go somewhere new, not too far and I knew that we couldn’t be away that long either.

Total Tour

Total tour

Kafue had been on our list for a while and we had thought & hoped to get back to Zambia this year; however it’s the usual story, 5 days from CT to Katima Mulilo and 5 days back doesn’t make for a quick trip, however I managed to put together a 19 day trip thanks to good advice received from fellow forum members on the Land Cruiser Club & 4x4community forums.

Had I more time I would have planned things a little differently and having made the plans and arranged bookings at various places I inevitably wanted to make changes and hoped this would be possible en route. I had left two days not booked in the middle and reckoned that we would sort it when there.

Asking the right questions helps but if you don’t know what to ask then this can create problems. Also it pays to be very careful when taking onboard advice received. In my haste I forgot this all important rule with interesting results which will appear later !

The weather in CT was crap and we left in the freezing cold and pouring rain going up the R27 but altering our course back to the N7 from Lamberts Bay as the dirt roads were flooded. Getting down to Port Nollith we were pleased that there seemed to be a break in the weather and we stayed over, as usual, in the self catering cottage at Bedrock on the beach front. R 700 – Inexpensive and 4 website Bedrock Lodge

The next day the weather seemed a bit better and we crossed into Namibia, as usual via, Alexander Bay to Oranjemund and then through the mine to Rosh Pinah and thence Aus. They are busy constructing a new wide road from the border post at Oranjemund which has all the looks of a road that will eventually be tarred to join up with the tar south of Rosh Pinah. Progress, but the effect will be that the Border Crossing will cease to be a quiet affair.

Mine Road from Oranjemund

On the road from Rosh Pinah north we suddenly ran into huge winds, incredibly strong and realised that camping was going to be a no no at Klein Aus Vista our usual stop-over point. Fortunately they had accommodation as some people had checked out early due to the wind and headed to Luderitz – I bet the wind was no better there either 🙂 – anyway it meant that we were able to spend the night up at Eagles Nest at The Boulder. Really nice accommodation, this house is large enough for two families. In spite of the howling wind which was still going strong in the morning it was really great to be back here with those endless views. Camping would have been R200 – don’t ask ! click 4 website Klein Aus Vista

The Boulder Eagles Nest Klein Aus
The Boulder  - Klein Aus

Leaving in the morning and heading up the C13 via Helmeringhausen, Maltehohe to Kalkrand & thence the main road B1 to Windhoek. We stopped off at Tirool half way between Aus and Helmeringhausen to stock up with Kudu steaks from Hermien – always good and excellent value.

By Windhoek we had out-run the wind and it was starting to get a bit warmer. De Vagabond, (Formally The Guesthouse) – in Stein Street, our usual stopover point, with a warm welcome as always from Barbara Sturm, R 790.00 B&B . Dinner at Joe’s an obvious choice. We seem to eat there so often these days that I got a loyalty card 🙂Click 4 website Da Vagabond

Glad to get out of Windhoek we took the main drag North to Rundu. Traffic North was very light indeed but this was the Sunday before schools went back and thus the traffic south all the way to Otavi on the B1 was very heavy indeed with traffic cops and speed cameras in great numbers – never seen so many on this road.

The drive from Otavi to Grootfontein is a most beautiful section and it was nice to be driving it again. Then follows the long-haul from Grootfontein to Rundu but we had made good time. We had never stopped over at Rundu before and took advice to camp at Sarasungu on the banks of the Okavango River. It was now really warm and I started to feel that, finally, I was away and on holiday. Sarasungu proved to be a good place to stop, very pleasant, lots of grass and great abultions.R 150.00. The lack of the African word for “maintenance” manifested itself in that obviously the thermostat for the geyser was broken so the hot water was boiling hot which made for an “interesting” experience when wanting to turn the red hot, hot tap, off :-). They are doing major roadworks in this part of Rundu so it was a bit round the houses on both the way in and out.Click 4 Sarasunga Website


Peace at Last Rundu

We left early the next morning as we wanted to get to Katima, cross the border and then head up the Mongu road to Kabula Lodge, another recommendation.

Kabula Lodge

The Caprivi was quiet so good time was made and crossing from Namibia all went smoothly. At last the border post buildings at Sesheke are complete – the old Caravan lies abandoned by the wayside. A word about fuel here. You cannot use cards anymore in Namibia it has to be cash only. In Zambia its always been cash so no change. I had got stuck with some old Kwachas from a previous trip which were now useless so arriving on the Zambian side I had to deal with the touts to get some new currency; 6kw to US$1 – I had little choice and there was no way I was putting my card into an ATM machine. The touts were being hassled by the soldiers there but some things never change in africa and it was business on the sly as usual.

The border post is really great – 4 attended windows to go to – pleasant staff. Firstly we had to fill in a form IRO ebola and have our mouths inspected. 304 Kw (R549) car insurance; $20 US road tax (R202.00) 30kw council tax (R 54) and the other tax 526Kw (R 950) rather like the Serengeti, the more you have to pay the less you get – apart from the new Chinese built roads I reckon that the national emblem for Zambia should be the pothole.

Formalities done we decided to go to the bank in Sesheke to change some more dollars. The bank was like something out of a western movie from a one horse town, imagine my annoyance when I found that the official rate was 5.9907 = 1 US$ – the touts gave a better rate. Once done & out of the bank we were off up the newly tarred Chinese road. Wow what a pleasure but it has been at the expense of the beautiful forest which has been severely cut back and hacked out. No doubt it will grow back in time. Half an hour up the road we pulled off into Kabula Lodge down on the banks of the ever beautiful Zambezi River. Welcomed by Kennister & Roigt the campsite was empty and stayed that way so we had choice pick of the sites. Lovely place with good ablutions and super friendly staff. R 230.00. I feel that the new improved road may work against them for people heading westwards but if heading back to the border its a great place to stop over so as to be early in the morning to cross.Click 4 Kabula Lodge Website

Zambezi River

Map showing lodges
Kabula lodge

Kabula Lodge half hour drive from Border on Mongu Road

Kabula Lodge
Kabula Lodge

Now to the great stuff up on the trip 🙁 – When I had looked at the map in the planning stage I saw that to get to Kafue, to the middle of Kafue, Mukambi Lodge – heavily recommended – I had three choices. Either via Livingstone (no thank you with that dreadful pot-holed road) or straight up the middle on the D787 and then bush bash into the park or via Mongu. I was told that there was a new road. A new road apart from the new road from Sesheke, this was a new road to Mongu, so new it was not yet on any maps. I was told yep, this is the way to go, will take 6 hours to Mukambi good tar all the way – Oh yeah ?

I had thought oh well what can be so difficult about this, bound to be signs. Then I got to thinking but hang on there must then be a new bridge over the Zambezi as before we had crossed on a few ferries to get to the plains. I quizzed Kennister and he said yes nice new road, no, no bridge at Mongu you take the Pontoon – Oh yeah right ! confused. Thought funny that I had not been told anything about a pontoon; merely take the new road, again thinking that all would be obvious. Yeah right – what were you smoking. So off we go in the morning, carrying on with the great new tar road, wow this is fantastic, no pot holes to dodge – 6 hours – so we will get to Mukambi by 2 ish – no way Hose – driving along I see out of the corner of my eye a sign saying “Pontoon” so what do I do ? I, bloody fool that I am, ignore it, as…. well, we’re still driving on this nice new road. So on we go only to come, eventually, to an, end of road sign and roadworks. Now I know the new road is not on the map so I think well no one said anything about this maybe they are still working on the road and we will join up with the new section soon. The Chinese supervisors watch us with interest as we bump our way along on a road from hell – eventually it dawns on me that just maybe that sign saying Pontoon was the one we were supposed to notice ! I stop to ask a lorry driver delivering bread whats up. He laughs and says yep the new road is on the OTHER SIDE OF THE RIVER – why did no one tell me this vital piece of information – why did I not check properly? Duh !

So decision time, either I turn around and grind my way back or continue as its “only” another 35 kms of hell to the old Kalangola Ferry and then to Senanga where the new road joins up. Foolishly I decide to carry on. Arriving at Kalangola I recognize all from before, the usual layabouts surveying the scene and the old jalopy of a ferry is on the other side of the river. Fear not says one, it will come across soon and before too long I have another car behind me and the ferry makes its way across to our side. So I reckon well OK, its a bit of a delay, but hell it’s Africa.

Waiting for the Ferry
waiting for the ferry

The Ferry Approaches
The Ferry Approaches - check the Captain

We board
We Board

We board, time passes, and eventually the Captain decides it’s time to go, 150Kw for the trip. The ferry struggles and twists and turns; we are going nowhere except away from the shore. Times passes and it becomes obvious that we are well and truly stuffed. Can’t cross the river, can’t get off the ferry. The engine looks like it belongs in a museum and in usual “African, maintenance (sic), style” everything is held together with baling wire and fractured cables much repaired. The fault is that was is left of the cable has wrapped itself around the propeller. The assistant has tried but he can’t fix it – THE MECHANIC needs to be called. He is coming… African time… on foot. When he eventually arrives he is cross as he was not been told that the prop is under the water – looking at my shorts (yeah, really likely) he announces that had he known he would have worn shorts. We all try not to laugh.

Wet Pants 🙂
Wet Pants

The Museum Piece
Museum Piece

Well he’s going somewhere !
Well he's going somewhere

Long story short, three and a half hours later we get to the other side of the river to then have a further 16kms of the crapist track yet to get to Senanga and to join at the end of this, the new & much fabled tar road, and a circle ! I had to laugh, it was the only thing to do, but by now the day was marching on and I did not want to have to drive in the dark so put foot a bit. The stretch to Mongu was fine and we pulled in to just to top up fuel, but leaving Mongu the road started to fall apart, back to normal Zambian style – pot holes galore with sections where the tar has simply been removed – Kaoma – Eventually coming to the Park Gate where magic new tar greeted us with gentle rumble strips. The tyre skid marks everywhere evidence of either animal casualties or near misses.

Mukambi Area
Mukambi Area

The last bit was scary as the locals can all see in the dark and don’t need headlights ! We rolled into Mukambi at 6.30pm – what a long day that was. As it was after office hours there was no one to meet and greet us but after a bit I found someone who was able to acknowledge our booking and show us to the very last tented stand right down at the furthest point of the property. The car had to be parked a way away so care was needed to be taken in unpacking as there is always the dangers of animals coming across the area, especially in the dark. The Tented accommodation was very Stylish and the morning revealed the view across the Kafue river. Very nice. We went down to the lodge for dinner and were very glad to get back and collapse into the very comfortable, mosquito netted, huge bed.

About Mukambi – Click 4 Mukambi Website I am sure many people will want to disagree with me but what follows is our experience & opinion. Mukambi; It’s not worth it. At a reduced SADC rate of US $220 per person per day including meals it is very expensive for what it is. The food is average. It was suggested that this is a great place to spoil SWAMBO – she does not agree – Firstly interior descretators (sic) should be made to live with their own ideas in the same way that Architects should be made to work on Removal Trucks moving furniture before they are allowed to pick up a pencil and design a doorway entrance !

Loos in rooms are all very well but damn it all you want a proper door ! Wash basins that are like asparagus plates are just bloody useless. It is not difficult to get water pressure especially when you are on the banks of a mighty river but the designer dinner plate shower head with those oh so wonderful on/off only taps is also dreadful. And to crown it all the donkeys for the hot water are built alongside the tents so that the prevailing wind blows wood smoke into the accommodation. Really bright that one.

The morning revealed that we were not delivered hot water to make coffee – this may have been our mistake as we did say we could make it ourselves with our portable stove – but having asked about this for the next two days – still none was forthcoming for the three days we were there. Secondly rubbish was strewn around below the balcony on the river bank. Someone was not doing their job. It was attended to after our complaint.

However, however, major whinge coming up……..Management is never as good as owner operated. A fact of life from my experience.

We had learnt after booking that Mukambi had a five day special, with three days up at the Busanga Plains Camp in Northern Kafue at a special of $995 US pp. We had booked two days here and had the next two days not booked and so we could alter our onward plans if necessary. Speaking to management the next morning about the possibility of doing this I did not even get to complete the sentence before the head starting shaking from side to side and the response was …..with incredible and unbelievable abruptness – NO, its not possible, the staff are away,…. the lack of empathy was quite alarming. Speaking to other staff it was obvious that there was an element of surprise at this reaction. For myself I reckon that if we had been a party of six all would have been available but for just the two of us there was no interest at all. This in spite of the fact that this special was advertised on the wall in the reception area. It left a very distasteful feeling in the mouth. We were under-whelmed by the “hospitality”.

It would seem to us upon reflection that Mukambi enjoys a comfort zone. They are close to the main Mongu to Lusaka road and they have lots of fly-ins or people who just want to get out of Lusaka for the weekend and so they have become complacent and arrogant about who they are and what they offer – they are a money making racket, plain and simple. Right down to demanding 50% deposit upfront and then having the cheek to add on the banks charges for using your bank card – another 13 US $ -The general staff are very pleasant, which in any case is true of most black Zambians, they are delightful, but the screws are turned down for the tourists. We regret going there. It’s not so much the money, it’s the attitude & deportment that sucks.

As a starting point in the area there is a perfectly good camping site, Lwengu,
Click 4 Lwengu camp Website
just below the Hook bridge, little shade but good ablutions, just past a private game rangers private camp site; right on the river, at a fraction of the cost. This would be a far better place to stay for 4×4 self sufficient people. Moral of the story ? We should stay away from places like Mukambi they really only want the overseas or fly in types.

Hook Bridge Built by Chinese in 1973 – in poor condition
Hook Bridge over Kafue

Whilst at Mukambi we went on a river trip – very nice, and did a night game drive – not good – we had driven the area earlier in the day, on the other side of the Kafue River ourselves and there was not much to entertain – the Tsetse fly were out in force. Options: close windows – might as well stay at home. Drive with open windows – wave frantically at no one in particular – the buggers don’t die easily. 🙁 but not as bad as Katavi in Tanzania.



kafue river

Lin on Kafue



fish eagle

In the end we stayed three nights at Mukambi – we did a day excursion into Northern Kafue and drove up as far as Lufupa to the wilderness safaris set-up, They had 15 fly in guests, expensive – and really it has to be said not much excitement there either. We went off route and had lunch by the river which was nice but saw very little indeed. We had been built up to expect wondrous things in the north of the park and maybe this is so but we certainly didn’t experience any wow feelings. Except for a small herd of Sable.

Now to redress the balance somewhat. Upon checking out after three days, management without being asked, did reduce the bill to $1770 US = R 19,157.00 for three days – I reckon, being a synic, that they knew that I was pissed off at not being able to do what we had wanted and they wanted to redress the balance but to be fair they didn’t HAVE to do this. Even so, I’m sorry, but they are just not worth the money. That’s all I can say.

another african sunset !


Lin sunset








The highlight of the trip however was to follow. Again Mukambi have very little interest in anything but themselves and were not able to actually offer any worthwhile info about their surrounds other than to say speak to Kaingu, Speak to Nanzhila – which we did. She could not even tell me if the River Road to Kaingu was do-able or not – Kaingu said that they had received clients in the recent past so yes it was.

The River Road, now we’re talking. 50 Kms – Mrs Garmin estimated 2.5 hours – it took 3.5 but who cares, every minute of it was great, except for the Tsetse fly – more waving. There was some bundu bashing to do and stopping to move fallen trees ! out of the road, and a few detours to take too. Mrs Garmin got lost a few times but with a bit of attention it was easy to work out which way to go. There was a river bed turn that was easy to miss but with the GPS pulled in close you realised very quickly your error. Someone had put a barrier across one potential turn and someone else had painted white paint marks on the trees and then just when you thought you’d really lost the track up popped a sign ! Happiness reigns. We went past a deserted former camp – all these buildings roofless just left to the elements – unbelievable – we went past Puku Pan with glimpses of the river, lots of minor wildlife & birds to be seen too. It was a lovely trip and the cherry on the top was arriving at Paradise – Kaingu – with a warm welcome from Julia.Click 4 Kaingu Website We were arriving a day early but this was no hassle, space was available and we were promptly shown to the most amazing campsite I have ever stayed at – the sheer beauty of the surrounds has to be witnessed first hand to be believed – there is a quality of light there which makes for a surreal experience.

bush sign

We could have stayed there for three days but foolishly only stayed two thinking that we might want to spend three at Nanzhila. Kaingu has in the recent past has changed hands and whilst I think Tom & Viviane Heineken still have an interest, the major share of their ownership has been bought out by two other couples Julia & Gil and Rick & Lynda. In the event we only got to meet Julia & Rick and both were very kind, informative & helpful. With new blood in the place changes are happening and there is quite a lot of development taking place. It is all very sensitive and well thought out. We could have stayed the 2nd night at the first camp spot but they had booked us into their private one and it is at a distance, bit eclectic but also on the river. Having looked at it we made the decision to move there. Again great position – great showers – Mukambi take note. We went on drives in the area and nearby there is a turn off to a private location where you get to drive up the rocks to a look out point. Someone said of the area that it’s like part of the Matopos which have been uplifted and put down here – I think that is a perfect analogy. It is up there with Jacobsons on Lake Tanganiyka and Mukuzi Lodge on Lake Malawi – special, special place.

Route South to kaingu
map route south to kaingu


The Magic spell of kaingu










Yet another flaming African sunset 🙂


Eclectic Camp set-up !



Sadly and to our regret afterwards we left and made the trek south to the plains and Nanzhila. The journey is 148 kms and again Mrs Garmin estimated a time of 5.25 hours we did it I think in 6.5 but we did stop off at the Itechi Techi Dam en route.

Bear in mind that whenever you go on an excursion at any of these places, all activities are $45 pp US but there are also park fees to pay too – even on a boat trip regardless of the fact that Mukambi & Kaingu are outside the park. The whole of the river is counted as being in 🙁

The park fees are not cheap either, foreign vehicle Kw 79 per day, Kw 79 entrance per person per day, camping levy Kw 26 pp pd = Kw 210 or R 371 a day on top of whatever you are paying for lodges or campsites or excursions.

Heading south from Kaingu we travelled via kafue where, thereafter they are busy constructing a new, to be tarred road, to the dam. The Itechi Techi dam is quite a sight to behold; it is big and very beautiful. The Chinese are there big-time constructing a new hydro power plant, the guard at the bridge was not impressed with me taking photos but I pointed out that there was no sign ! Leaving the area the road falls apart once more and its back to pothole land. Entering the park again at Musagate there was the usual swathe of forms to fill in and an exchange of further wealth. All very pleasant but oh so painfully slow. I wonder where they store all these books they fill in and who, if anyone, actually checks them; but filled in they must be.

Itechi Techi Dam



Route South to Nanzhilla

Again the Tsetse fly were a pain, they seem to come in certain areas, in full combat gear, more waving, and then just as suddenly you seem to be clear of them. Once in the park the road was better and rather than taking the Section Road or Cutline we went around to Nanhzila.


Nanzhila is very nice –
Click 4 Nanzhila Website
– we met Steve – the owner – briefly – he was on his way back to Francistown where he lives but we were left in the more than capable care of Tom & Viviane Heineken – formally of Kaingu fame, who are helping out there at the present time. What a joy and a privilege to meet these two characters. We got the low down on Kaingu and what their hopes are for the future. They are extremely knowledgeable about the whole area and were a mine of generous information. They hope to start up a new community based camp in the Itechi Techi Dam area and I hope they do as they are the perfect hosts – Mukambi take note – We had booked to camp here, but one look at the campsite convinced us that this was not for us. It was hot and there was no shade at all. There was a perfectly good ablution block and they are in the process of building a boma but there is simply no shade. Then there are the Tsetse ! It is dirty sand – no grass – not good – Steve offered us a rate which was affordable so we upgraded to a tented camp situation, catering for ourselves the first night, down at the campsite so as not the frighten the overseas tourists ! – but going full board the next. The Tented accommodation was way superior to Mukambi and vastly cheaper. This had a one-third “orange” for a wash basin ! We enjoyed our two-day stay there but wished we had rather stayed an extra day at Kaingu ! So it is…………..

dry and dirty sand at campsite – no shade – we just cooked there first night

The surroundings



The Tented camp !

The African dildo tree

Wishing daughter in London Happy B’day – sat phone !

The VERY dry plain





A small point….you arrive….and someone says would you like a drink. ENGAGE BRAIN – but you don’t. You are tired. Your answer should be : “Are you being hospitable or business like” ? – result, you are charged for two beers. Not a train smash but on the other hand………….

We drove a number of routes in the Nanzhilla area and saw all the usual suspects plus some other more exotic breeds, like sable, fleetingly. It is very nice but the Tsetse fly are again a major pain – you simply spend your time waving frantically at no one or anything in particular, it got so bad that in the end we had no choice other than to get out of the Cruiser, close the windows, spray massive amounts of doom, wait for a few minutes, waving frantically again, and eventually getting back into the car with closed windows and trying not to die from poisoning from the effects from the spray and to continue with windows firmly closed and Tsetse fly passengers clinging to the windows, outside, like the disadvantaged at the traffic robots in Cape Town. Yeah right ! Not to mention the massacre within !

Bush Bash Route South from Nanzhilla to Sesheke & the border

So, disappointed that we did not stay the extra day at Kaingu – lesson learnt – we decided to take the direct route south out of kafue so that we could slot in a day at one of our all time favourites – Kwando River Lodge – in the Caprivi – Again no one had any actual info on this route but we were told that other people had recently travelled that way. We cut across westwards to the Cutline or Section Road as it is more properly called and it was far better than I had imagined. Some areas of fairly deep sand but nothing that we could not cope with. At the boundary of the park we had expected a section station at Mulubezi Gate, but in the event there was nothing at all and so we left the park.

The map gives you two options for getting to the D787 at Malabwe, we tried the obvious more northern route but this was quite overgrown and to us didn’t look like it was used often so we back tracked and took the lower road which was off-road as far as Mrs Garmin was concerned, for some reason, with our 2011 version of T4A. The route is seriously overgrown in places with high “hedges” and we got whipped by overgrown bushes & branches, but it was passable. Coming to a village “Mulanga” we encountered a makeshift “African” boom with a hut – sure enough there they were with the usual “Official Book” logging us out of the park !!! Fortunately I had my permits to be able to fill in yet another useless book. Continuing from Mulanga through countless small villages we eventually pitched up at the D787 at Malabwe. If we had taken the more northerly route I guess we would not have encountered the official hut but who knows ?

Feeling rather pleased with ourselves for having taken this relatively easy track rather than returning via the pothole disgrace of the Livingstone road we were suddenly brought back into line by the appalling state of the previously, one-time, tarred, D 787 down to the Main Road towards Sesheke. Oh Boy what hell this 85 Km stretch is.

The whole distance from Nanzhilla to Sesheke was a mere 287 Km’s, it took us the whole day 🙁 this last section was indescribably bad and what a busy road it is too with heavy trucks lumbering along at 15Kmph.

In the end we met the main road and it was back to mere potholes for the section through Sesheke to the border post. All went smoothly, quickly and efficiently on the Zambian side however on the Namibian side we met the weak link. What is “UK” this wonder of government employment asked – question where were you born ? I held my tongue, it still hurts 🙂 and explained what/where UK was ! You couldn’t make it up…………Having paid yet again for Road Tax 220 $ Nam – why do they not have multiple entry permits ??? We escaped the clutches of officialdom and drove back into Katima where we promptly headed for Diesel, shops and the luxury of the green grass of the Protea Hotel on the banks of the Zambezi River – a bargain at R260 wifi included 🙂 Apart from one other couple we had the place to ourselves and the ablutions are fantastic. Joy. Nice to be back in Namibia.

Protea Hotel Lawn Katima

It was just a very short distance the next day down the Caprivi to Kwando; driving past the Katima end of the Kwando road we could see that it is not yet completely finished but at the Divindu end it is now a pleasant and easy drive all the way down to Kwando Lodge – this made for a really relaxing day.Click 4 Kwando Camp Website

The campsite at Kwando was virtually empty and we spent a nice time on the Kwando River with a lekker braai that night with Kudu Steaks from Hermien.

Kwando Lodge



Moving on the next day we had made the decision to stop over at Rundu rather than Grootfontein as we wanted to check out the Gondwana group lodge called Hakusembe on the Okavango River. Having Gondwana Cards gives us a worthwhile discount to stay at these places, like for example Klein Aus Vista.Click 4 Hakusembe Lodge Website

Hakusembe – Rundu Gondwana Collection
Rock not mud – Okavango

Going shopping from Angola to Rundu – passports not required ! 🙂






Reflections of the sky in our wake


We were very lucky as there was only one room available and whilst not great we didn’t mind as the setting is so lovely. You can sit on the Stoep overlooking the Okavango River and Angola and watch the locals cross from Angola in makoros to do their shopping in Rundu ! Passports bypassed 🙂 – In the event having just offloaded everything they came to us and said a party had arrived short would we like to move to “The Villa” right on the River – would we hell – you bet ! Nice touch that.

All in all a very pleasant place, the food being adequate & plentiful but not anything special. There is a small campsite adjacent and a number of others nearby. It is 20Kms. West out of Rundu so far enough away. We went on a sundown cruise and it was interesting to see the “mud” banks which in fact are not mud but rock ! And lots of night herons, crocs and other birds.

Heading home now we did the next leg to Windhoek and De Vagabond & Joes for supper again followed by our usual cross Namibia trip, stopping briefly at Tirool again to stock up with more Kudu back & then to Klein Aus Vista where we had been lucky in being able to stay at the Geisterschluct in that magic seculded kloof again, What joy. Weather getting colder again 🙁

klein aus vista
klein aus


Too far for the SX50 ! Other photos are Pana FZ200

Crossing the border the next day at Oranjemund it was really cold and dull and we made for Springbok to stay at Daisy Lodge for the night. They up their prices by quite a bit for the “flower season” – this, September 15th is hardly flower season – smacks of greed I think – it’s the 2nd time we’ve stayed here but don’t think we will go back – just not for us.

Now for the final day, decisions, decisions… we stay on the N7, it’s a Monday morning or should we get off back to the R 27 – the traffic south is really light. In fact right down to Van Rynsdorp we didn’t get to overtake anyone and only about 4 cars overtook us. The roadworks are a pain however starting north of Van Rhynsdorp and ending at Citrusdal. 11 stop/go sections which added about an hour to the travelling time. Then all good until the outskirts of Cape Town and the dual carriageway extension. Back home in the Southern Suburbs, early afternoon to avoid rush hour. All good.

Forced roadworks stop – Van Rhynsdorp –
van r

van r

So to sum up: a 19 day trip, some 7800Kms travelled, no car issues, Kafue, what to think. Glad we’ve been, I do not think that it is the most popular part of Zambia to go to – which has advantages as we hardly encountered any other 4×4 travellers. The Tsetse fly, well that goes with the territory. Probably would be better to go when greener, but that said we saw little in the way of wildlife and when greener the grass would be high ! Kaingu was most certainly the highlight of the trip but getting there in the wet season would be a problem.